Introduction

Morocco is the tantalising lower lip on the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea, a Muslim land so rich in mystique it seems to hover like a magic carpet somewhere between myth and reality. Tangier, Casablanca, Marrakesh...just the names of these cities and towns should stir a hint of spice in the nostrils of the most geographically challenged. Many Moroccan destinations have been mythologised, and for good reason, but the more jaded traveller may well moan about the extinction of the 'real' Morocco. Still others will extol the country's unique living history, its shimmering light, its art. The truth lies somewhere in between.

Morocco is the ideal starting point for the traveller to Africa. An easy hop from Europe, it can be a friendly, hectic and stimulating place to get around in. Open-air markets throughout the country are piled high with rugs, woodwork, and jewellery. The country's prime produce (if you don't count the hashish) is leather - said to be the softest in the world.

Travellers to Morocco should avoid political gatherings and demonstrations. Those planning to travel through the disputed territory of Western Sahara should note that armed clashes between the Polisano Front and Moroccan authorities are a possibility. Many areas of the Western Sahara are mined.

Full country name: Kingdom of Morocco
Area: 447,000 sq km
Population: 29 million
Capital city: Rabat
People: 55% Arab, 44% Berber, 0.7% foreigners
Languages: Arabic (officially) with Berber dialects, as well as French, Spanish and English.
Religion: 98% Muslim, 1% Christian, 1% Jew
Government: Constitutional monarchy
King: King Mohammed VI
Prime Minister: Abderrahmane El Youssoufi

GDP: US$107 billion
GDP per head: US$3,200
Annual growth: 6.8%
Inflation: 6%
Major industries: Agriculture, manufacturing, fishing, tourism
Major trading partners: EU, US, Japan, Saudi Arabia, Brazil

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History

Morocco's strategic location has shaped its history. Beginning with the Phoenicians, many foreigners have come to this area, some to trade or settle, others as invaders sweeping the land and dominating it. Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, and Byzantine Greeks successively ruled the area. Arab forces began occupying Morocco in the seventh century A.D., bringing with them Arab civilization and Islam. Other invasions followed. The Alaouite dynasty, which has ruled Morocco since 1649, claims descent from the Prophet Muhammad. Morocco's location and resources led to early competition among European powers in Africa, beginning with successful Portuguese efforts to control the Atlantic coast in the 15th century. France showed a strong interest in Morocco as early as 1830. Following recognition by the United Kingdom in 1904 of France's "sphere of influence" in Morocco, the Algeciras Conference (1906) formalized France's "special position" and entrusted policing of Morocco to France and Spain jointly. The Treaty of Fez (1912) made Morocco a protectorate of France. By the same treaty, Spain assumed the role of protecting power over the northern and southern (Saharan) zones.

The first nationalist political parties based their arguments for Moroccan independence on such World War II declarations as the Atlantic Charter (a joint statement issued by President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Prime Minister Winston Churchill that sets forth, among other things, the right of all people to choose the form of government under which they will live). A manifesto of the Istiqlal (Independence) Party in 1944 was one of the earliest public demands for independence. That party subsequently provided most of the leadership for the nationalist movement.

France's exile of the highly respected Sultan Muhammad V in 1953 and his replacement by the unpopular Muhammad Ben Aarafa, whose reign was perceived as illegitimate, sparked active opposition to the French protectorate. France allowed Muhammad V to return in 1955; negotiations leading to independence began the following year.

The Kingdom of Morocco recovered its political independence from France on March 2, 1956. By agreements with Spain in 1956 and 1958, Moroccan control over certain Spanish-ruled areas was restored (see box, p. 2). On October 29, 1956, the signing of the Tangier Protocol politically reintegrated the former international zone. Spain, however, retained control over the small enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla in the north and the enclave of Ifni in the south. Ifni became part of Morocco in 1969.

After the death of his father, Muhammad V, King Hassan II succeeded to the throne on March 3, 1961. He recognized the Royal Charter proclaimed by his father on May 8, 1958, which outlined steps toward establishing a constitutional monarchy.

A constitution providing for representative government under a strong monarchy was approved by referendum on December 7, 1962. Elections were held in 1963. In June 1965, following student riots and civil unrest, the king invoked article 35 of the constitution and declared a "state of exception." He assumed all legislative and executive powers and named a new government not based on political parties. In July 1970, King Hassan submitted to referendum a new constitution providing for an even stronger monarchy. Its approval and the subsequent elections formally ended the 1965 "state of exception."

An unsuccessful coup on July 10, 1971, organized by senior military officers at Skhirat, was followed by Morocco's third constitution, approved by popular referendum in early 1972. The new constitution kept King Hassan's powers intact but enlarged from one-third to two- thirds the number of directly elected parliamentary representatives.

In August 1972, after a second coup attempt by Moroccan Air Force dissidents and the King's powerful Interior Minister General Oufkir, relations between the opposition and the Crown deteriorated, due to disagreement on opposition participation in elections. The king subsequently appointed a series of nonpolitical cabinets responsible only to him.

Stemming from cooperation on the Sahara issue (see box, p. 2), rapprochement between the king and the opposition began in mid-1974 and led to elections for local councils, with opposition party participation, in November 1976. Parliamentary elections, deferred because of tensions with Spain and Algeria over the Sahara dispute, were held in 1977, resulting in a two-thirds majority for the government- backed independent candidates and their allies, the Istiqlal and the Popular Movement. The Constitutional Union finished first in local elections in June 1983 and parliamentary elections in 1984.

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Culture

From the 'standard' Arabic culture, Morocco has developed an elaborate patchwork of artistic traditions. The thread holding it all together is music; from the classical style that developed in Muslim Spain and the storytelling musical traditions of the indigenous Berbers, through to the contemporary fusion of African, French, pop and rock. Although identified more with Algeria, rai (opinion) music is a burgeoning force in Morocco. Despite its distinctly Arab-African rhythms (it owes much to Bedouin music), it's probably the most thoroughly westernised style, combining a variety of electrical instruments to create a hypnotic effect.

Morocco's Islamic streak has meant that, compared to most African nations, dance is a fairly low key affair (theoretically, Muslim women are not supposed to boogie). So while the circle dance known as ahidous is ancient and symbolic to the Berbers, there'll be no naked decapitating of chickens here anymore thanks very much.

Crafts are another staple of Morocco. Its maronquinerie (leatherware) has been a highly prized item among the cargo of traders since the 16th century. An equally rich heritage lives on in the production of carpets, pottery, jewellery, brassware and woodwork.

Painted and sculpted panels for interior decoration are commonplace, and intricate tiled ornamentation still graces the interior of various medersas and other religious buildings and wealthy homes. The mashrabiyya, screens allowing Muslim women to observe the goings-on in the street unseen, survive also. While these items aren't likely candidates for souvenirs, they do serve to show that Moroccan crafts aren't completely dependent on floods of tourists.

From the outside looking in, Morocco has inspired all sorts of artists. The French Neo-Baroque artist Eugene Delacroix devoted bucketloads of paint to Moroccan imagery after a visit in the 1830s. Market scenes, harem life and lion hunts dominated his canvases from this point onwards. And if Delacroix was considered a little over the top at the time, a century later Hollywood was positively beside itself with Morocco-mania. First there was Marlene Dietrich in Morocco, followed by the 1942 classic Casablanca. By the time Peter O'Toole was swanning around Morocco as Lawrence of Arabia, the country had become a gloriously distorted fantasy land for countless western baby boomers.

Spoken Moroccan Arabic (darija) is considerably different from the Arabic spoken in the Middle East. Various Berber dialects are widely spoken in the countryside and particularly in the mountains. Morocco tends to march to its own Islamic drum in terms of customs and way of life, but men remain firmly in charge. The strict segregation of the sexes in public life may be confusingly inconsistent to the visitor. As a rule, it's in the big cities where the most mixing, and the most fashion risks, are encountered.

Moroccan food is good and solid, without being wildly exciting. The national dish is couscous, finely ground semolina, which usually accompanies a vegetable and lamb casserole. Sweet mint tea is the Moroccan drink of choice, but this doesn't mean the place is teetotal. There's no general ban on alcohol.

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Getting There & Away

With international airports at Casablanca, Tangier and Agadir, Morocco is well linked to Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Taking your own vehicle to Morocco is straightforward. There's a variety of car ferries and jetfoils operating between Algericas in Spain and Morocco's Tangier and Ceuta. There are also ferry trips twice a week from Gibraltar to Tangier.

Getting Around

If time is your enemy and you've got a bit of cash to splash about, consider the occasional internal flight to make the most of this land. Morocco's Office National des Chemins de Fer (ONCF) operates one of the most modern rail systems in Africa, linking most of the main centres. The trains are generally comfortable, fast and a better option than the buses - if only because sleeping cars are available for many overnight trips. Lines go as far south as Marrakesh. But if you miss the train, the buses are by no means a last-ditch option. The bus network is dense and efficient in most areas. Renting a car ins't cheap in Morocco, but deals can be struck with the smaller dealers. Petrol (gas) is available pretty much everywhere. Take note that Moroccan roads are festooned with police and customs roadblocks.

The bigger cities have public bus services and the average ticket price is about Dr2. Petits taxis are a common sight in most cities and major towns. They're licensed to carry up to three passengers and can be a useful way to avoid heat exhaustion and/or hustlers.

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Attractions

Rabat (Rabat Hotels & Rabat Resort Reservation Service)

The fourth of the imperial cities, Rabat is a curious mix of a long past and a highly modernised present. The city's glory days were in the 12th century, when the then sultan used the kasbah (citadel) as a base for campaigns against the Spanish. It was during this time that the city's most famous landmarks sprang up. A haven for Muslims driven out of Spain in the early 17th century and a capital city only since the days of French occupation, Rabat's ambience comes from Islam and Europe in fairly equal proportions. For every place of worship there are three or four European-style cafes. Few of Rabat's residents are involved in the tourist racket, which means you can stroll through the markets without having to brace yourself against too much high-pressure salesmanship.

The city's most famous site is the Tour Hassan , the incomplete minaret of the great mosque begun by Yacoub al-Mansour. An earthquake brought construction to a halt in 1755. Alongside is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V , the present king's father. The Kasbah des Oudaias , built on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, houses a former palace which is now a museum of traditional art. Beyond the city walls are the remains of the ancient city of Sala . Also known as Chella , it has Morocco's best Archaeology Museum .

Between the city's landmark central park (Jardins Triangle de Vue) and the main train station, you'll find most of Rabat's hotels and eating spots. The most obvious cluster of cafes and bars here offer up all the beer, kababs, pizza, olives and ice cream you might need. The Mohammed V international airport is a short ride east of the city and there are plenty of shuttle buses.

Casablanca (Casablanca Hotels & Casablanca Resort Reservation Service)

Of all the cities in all the world, Hollywood chose this one to immortalise as the classic exotic colonial outpost. Those looking for a latter-day Humphrey Bogart round every corner will be disappointed. This is no sleepy dive. Morocco's largest city and industrial centre, it's a huge brash metropolis where traditional Moroccan burnouses (cloaks) seem out of place among the natty suits and designer sunglasses.

This port city was deep in decline until the French decided to remodel it with wide boulevards, public parks and imposing Mauresque (Moorish) civic buildings. Casablanca's medina , or ancient quarter, is worth a look and the Hassan II Mosque here is one of the largest in the world. At the square known as the Place Mohammed V you'll find the country's most impressive examples of Mauresque architecture. 'Casa' shares the Mohammed V airport with Rabat, and regular flights are available to and from Europe and the Middle East.

Marrakech (Marrakech Hotels & Marrakech Resort Reservation Service)

One of Morocco's most important cultural centres, Marrakesh is a lively former capital famed for its markets and festivals. Its wildly beating heart is the Place Djemaa el-Fna , a huge square in the old city. Rows of open-air food stalls are set up here and mouth-watering aromas fill the air. Jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers, magicians, acrobats and assorted benign lunatics take over the rest of the space. The souqs (markets) here are among the best in Morocco and a large budget hotel strip makes exploring the old city area cheap and easy.

Among the many attractions of the ancient quarter is the rare Almoravid-style Koubba Ba'adiyn mosque annex, the magnificent Koutoubia mosque and the Palais Dar Si Said (Museum of Moroccan Arts). Trains and buses to this inland city run regularly from Casablanca and Rabat.

Fez (Fez Hotels & Fez Resort Reservation Service)

The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic heart of Morocco. Its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur add to its air of intrigue and self-importance. The medina of Fez el-Bali (Old Fès) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world and the gates and walls that surround it make it all the more magnificent. Unlike many walled cities of this vintage, Old Fez hasn't burst its banks. The population has instead exploded out towards the south-west and spread to the hillsides in an arc stretching north and south of the new city.

Within the old city, tucked among roughly 9,400 streets and alleys, is the towering Medersa Bou Inania , a theological college built in 1350. Not far from here the henna souq is a market specialising in the dye used for colouring hair and tattooing women' hands and feet. Next door to the old walled city is Fez el-Jdid , home to the city's Jewish community and many spectacular buildings. In between the two self-contained cities is the Dar Batha , now the Museum du Batha. Fès is best reached by train from Rabat, Marrakesh or Tangier.

Tangier (Tangier Hotels & Tangier Resort Reservation Service)

While it's a compelling sort of city and a popular port of entry for tourists, Tangier is also home to some of the world's best hustlers. Perched on Morocco's northern tip, its international flavour remains strong; as does its reputation for inspiring shady deals and foreign misfits.

The city's central Petit Socco is the focus of attention. Back in the days when Tangier was a neutral international zone, this area provided the background for the seediest of lifestyles and it hasn't completely lost this air. Paedophile scenes aside, it is the kasbah that interests many visitors. It contains the 17th-century Dar el-Makhzen , the former sultan's palace and now a good museum. The nearby American Legation Museum is a fascinating reminder that Morocco was the first country to recognise American Independence. Tangier is five hours from Rabat by train, and an easy ferry ride from Spain or Gibraltar.

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Money & Costs

Currency: Dirham (Dr)

Meals

Budget: US$5-10


Mid-range: US$10-15


Top-end: US$15 and upwards

Lodging

Budget: US$15-25


Mid-range: US$25-50


Top-end: US$50 and upwards

Reckon on about US$40-50 per day if you want to travel in comfort. Budget travellers prepared to camp or stay in hostels could happily survive on about US$15-20 a day. Expect to pay dearly for the pleasure of beer (around US$3) and other heady imports. Getting around is relatively cheap and there are plenty of options, one of the cheapest (and most rewarding) is cycling.

There's a wide range of banks available for changing money and cashing travellers' cheques and credit cards. Generally, it's quick and easy with rates varying little from bank to bank. Probably the best of the banks is the Banque Marocaine du Commerce Extérieur (BMCE). Cash advances on credit cards and ATM carry a charge of about 1.5%.

Tipping is expected in the fancier eateries. Around 10-15% of your bill is usual. A dirham or two should suffice at the more humble restaurants and cafes. A whole range of other services, some of which you may not notice or want, are also performed with the aim of pocketing a few dirhams. Remember that for many porters, guides, bus stop spruikers (a particularly pesky species of hustler endemic to Tangier) and the like, this is how they make a living. On the other hand, aggressive hustling shouldn't be rewarded.

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Facts for the Traveler

Visas: All visitors require a passport. Citizens of the UK, EU, US, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas. Three-month visitor's stamps can be extended by Immigration or Bureau des Etrangers in most large towns.
Health risks: Malaria lurks in the northern coastal reaches of Morocco, but generally the country is one of Africa's least daunting healthwise. Medical treatment, however, can be very expensive.
Time: GMT/UTC
Electricity: 200V, 50Hz (110V in some older places)
Weights & measures: Metric

When to Go

On the coast the weather is tourist-friendly pretty much all year round, although winter can bring cool and wet conditions in the north. In the lowlands, the cooler months from October to April are popular among visitors. This time of year is pleasantly warm to hot (around 30°C) during the day and cool to cold (around 15°C) at night. Winter in the higher regions demands some serious insulation. If you're heading into the hills, the ski season usually lasts from December to March. For most trekking trips you should book in the high season (June 15 to September 15) or you may find areas full.

Events

This is one of those religious frontiers where orthodoxy and local custom have met and compromised. The veneration of saints is frowned on by the orthodox Sunni Muslims but Islam, like Christianity, is made up of many sects and such festivals continue. It's worth asking around for details of festival dates because many don't take place at any fixed time in the western calendar.

Around May there's the Mousseum of Sidi Mohammed M'a al-Anim , an occasion to see the 'blue people' (Moors of the Sahara) and the commercial gathering of tribes. The National Folklore Festival of Marrakesh is a 10-day tourist event well worth attending for the dancers, musicians and other entertainers from around the country. In October, the little Northern town of Erfoud hosts a festival in honour of the quintessential desert fruit, the date. Independence Day , one of five national secular holidays, is celebrated on 18 November.

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